Japanland

It's always interesting to visit the site of a momentous world evet - we'd already seen the site of the World Trade Centre in New York. That pales into insignificance alongside this event though.

As far as I can gather, unlike the war in Europe the war in Japan was uneccesary and was (like World War I) really a result of a lot of millitary building and sabre-rattling on all sides. By the time the war in Europe had finished, the war in Japan was not going well as far as the Japanese were concerned and as a result, on July 26th, 1945 the USA, UK and China presented Japan with the Potsdam Declaration which called for Japan to surrender. It stated that "The alternative for Japan is prompt and utter destruction.". Japan rejected the declaration - the thought is, though, that they were prepared to surrender; they just wanted to maintain their emperor. The Allies weren't happy with that so on Monday August 6th, 1945, the atomic bomb "little boy" was dropped on the city of Hiroshima from the US-piloted aircrafth "Enola Gay" (named after the pilot's mother). A few days later another bomb was dropped on the city of Nagasaki. The Hiroshima bombing was the first time an atomic bomb had been used in active warfare. Thankfully, the Nagasaki bombing remains the last.

The death toll varies from some 100,000 to 100,500 people - you can imagine that it's difficult to know for sure when a whole city and its records were wiped out. It's reckoned that about 70 000 died instantly. It's difficult to comprehend such numbers but you get some idea when you realise that every little tile in the memorial monument represents one life lost in the bombing.

We're lucky that there's very little photos and videos of it - you can imagine that if it happened today the BBC and other broadcasters would have teams down there pretty quick despite the risks, and footage of the "ghosts" wandering round the city would be broadcast for all to see. There is some footage which we saw after our tour round the museum. It's horrible and uncomfortable, especially for someone from a country associated with making the decision to drop the bomb. The museum itself is really very good. It starts with descriptions of what Hiroshima was like prior to the bombing, before taking you through the "Manhattan Project" - the name given to the research and development work behind the bomb - and there's many photographs from the meetings of the various allied leaders involved. It's odd to see Churchill in this context - in the UK he's always held up as a great hero of the 20th century but here, he's one of the bad guys. After the Manhattan project it shows how the bombing itself was carried out. It's funny how as a result Japan has become the ultimate peace nation - much of the rest of the museum is actually a protest on nuclear weapons and the countries that still have them (including a big map with a nuclear warhead on Scotland) and set them off from time to time just to make sure you know that they've got them. In fact, in the museum there's a clock which has a readout of how long it is since the Hiroshima bomb was dropped and also, how long it was since the last nuclear weapons test. The second number was just less that 150 days when we were there. The last bit of the museum is the most harrowing as there you see what limited visual evidence there is of the bombing after-effects. I won't go into it.

There was one particularly interesting thing for me mind. My grandfather on my mother's side (John Hutton) was in Malaysia right at the end of the war looking after Japanese prisoners who'd been captured by the British. The museum talked about the Japanese invasion of Malaysia (which was British occupied at the time) so those would have been the guys that my grandfather would have met. He really liked them - in fact, on one occasion he was to take them to an area of the jungle where they were to be working. He didn't know where it was but was told that the Japanese guys did so they would take him there. Of course, they ended up leading him on a merry dance around the jungle in order to avoid working. Naoko-san told us about how it's thought that the bombing was uneccesarry as Japan was ready to surrender and it brought back memories of my Grandfather telling me the same thing. He thought that it was wrong and I have to say, I agree. No one deserves that.

Anyhow, it was time to leave the bombing behind and see what else the Hiroshima area had to offer. There's actually a huge amount more to see and do other than the bomb-related sites and Naoko-san has been putting together a tourist-aimed leaflet to try and encourage people to do more in Hiroshima. That afternoon we went to Miyajima which is an island very close to Hiroshima. It's the site of some fantastic temples and shrines, including a torii gate in the sea and a temple which is built into the sea such that it looks like it's floating when the tide is in. There was also plenty of food to try including eels and oysters (cooked an raw), all of which Naoko-san made sure that we tried. There was also deer which would eat your map or JR pass if you weren't careful! We also started to get an impression of how Japanese food is strongly regionalised - every area has it's on particular foods and in particular, sweets. Miyajima is the home of a kind of maple-shaped biscuit which we saw in all the shops.

Naoko-san bid us farewell back at the station where we caught the Shinkansen heading further south and west towards Kyushu, an island off the tip of Japan but connected by bridges. There we were met by Tsuru's brother-in-law Kiyoshi-san who is a chemistry professor at the university of Kyushu. He's the sort of guy you would describe as "one of nature's gentlemen". He took us out for dinner where we had the local dish which was a kind of noodle soup with various bits and pieces in it. Really good and warming in the cold weather. We headed to the University the next day walking from his apartment through fields where rice was grown (although not at the moment as it was winter) and polytunnels with strawberries (the strawberries in Japan are the best we've tasted). The plan was for me to give a research talk to some of the students - I'd managed to get hold of some of my talks from my dad who has my laptop and I'd pieced together a talk on the train the day before. The problem was that the licence for Powerpoint on our wee laptop had timed out some time ago so I'd had to use OpenOffice which is a bit of a minefield, and when I pulled it back into Powerpoint it had destroyed most of my slides. The only solution was to find a computer with Powerpoint - Kiyoshi kindly found one for us but it was an Apple-Mac (I'm a hardcore PC guy) and was in Japanese. However, after a bit of thrashing away and Google-translating I managed to get it together and gave my talk after lunch. We were a wee bit late so when we arrived all the students were already there and waiting with their notebooks in front of them (it seemed so strange to have students actually all there and waiting and on time for a lecture!). When I talk I always keep an eye on my audience and judge how well it's going by their expressions. I'm not used to Japanese facial expressions though so it was a lot more difficult that usual but I was reassured by the fact that they asked insightful, intelligent questions at the end. It was a relief! I really enjoyed it as it had been a while since I'd had the chance to talk a bit of science. Afterwards, Charlotte and I chilled out in the University library watching some ethno-musicology videos. We tried to find a UK-related one but to no avail so we watched some from the other Asian countries we were due to visit. We also visited the office of Andy Robertson who is an academic originally from Bath who now lives and works in Japan. We bombarded him with questions about his impressions of Japan and what it's like to live in as a foreigner. It was really interesting to hear his point of view and he came up with the perfect description for us: "It's like a giant Japanese theme-park - Japanland!", spot on.

That evening, Kiyoshi-san had a new experience in store for us - the famous "Onsen", Japanese hot springs. We'd both heard of them but had no idea what to expect or how to behave given all the complex Japanese social rules. The male and female baths are segregated so Charlottte had the particularly scary task of going in by herself. I was lucky and had Kiyoshi-san to follow and copy. The most surprising thing is that everyone is completely naked and carries nothing other than a small towel which is sometimes put over important parts when in the sauna but seems to serve little to no purpose. There's loads of different baths which have different minerals and different temperatures, but before your bath you went into one of the little open booths which have a shower, shampoo, soap and a wee stool for you to sit on. It was a very relaxing expeirence and very liberating not to have to worry about washing yourself underneath your swimsuit. I always hate the towel-covering type tricks you seem to be expected to do in UK changing rooms and was great to be in an environment where no-body really cares. It was particularly interesting to see children (of both sexes) as well - I would imagine in the UK that people would get very twitchy about that. I thought it was really healthy as it means that these kids will be entirely familiar with what real bodies look like - unlike the UK kids who watch porn to get that kind of eductation and get some pretty odd ideas as a result.

Dinner afterwards was a tray with loads of different bowls and plates with all sorts of things incuding tempura (battered and deep fried stuff) and sushimi (raw fish) all of which was fab. The funny bit was that to get your meal you first paid for a ticket from a vending machine which you then handed over to the staff who would bring you your meal.

We had a second day with Kiyoshi-san who originally planned to take us to make pots (at the suggestion of his daughter Mari-san). We all decided that that wasn't such a good idea as we'd never be able to carry them with us on the rest of our journey, but Andy the Bath academic had suggested that we visit Dazaifu - another place with loads of temples. It turned out to be a fab idea. One of the temples in particular had a zen garden with loads of standing stones and the gravel raked into patterns which was a great place to hange out in. We also visited the exhibition of Van Gough paintings which was resident in Dazaifu at the time. It was fascinating and the first time I'd been at an art exhibition of quite such a famous artist. Charlotte actually knew a lot about painting techniques as a result of her artist modelling career so was able to fill me in on some of the finer points. Really interesting, which neither of us had experienced in a museum or gallery before - the place was completely packed. You could hardly move, let alone see the paintings. It let for a really exciting atmosphere.

By chance, we ran into a friend of Kiyoshi-san's at the exhibition who joined us for a particularly healthy Japanese lunch and then green tea and the local sweet delecacy - a kind of rice cake with sweet red bean paste. We followed him back to the city where he was going to buy some art equipment as he's an amateur artist, so we got the chance to see all the paints and papers used for calligraphy. We stopped at the supermarket on the way back and took in some more of the crazy foods on offer before Kiyoshi-san made us a fantastic meal of sashimi and his own noodle-broth.

It was back on the Shinkansen to Horyuji (well, Oji actually) where we were to meet Yu-san and Mari-san again. But before we caught the train we were able to take in a Japanese fish market and some of the sites and sounds of Fukuoka - the big city on Kyushu.

This brings me to some of the odd things you notice in Japan as it was in Fukuoka that we were crossing the street when we heard an electronic beepy version of "Coming Thro' the Rye" somewhere in the distance. It turned out to be the noise that the pedestrian crossing makes so that blind people know when to cross - wierd. There's a load of other wierd things mind...

• The shower toilet that washes you
  
• You shower BEFORE getting in the bath
  
• Everything has a theme tune, be it trains, crossings or buses
  
• There's fish for sale EVERYWHERE
  
• The bakeries are surprisingly good
  
• Everything's so small and pretty
  
• There's vending machines everwhere which can vend you just about anything
  
• It's common to buy a ticket from a vending machine in order to get a meal or a bath
  
• Many of the signs have amusing and cute cartoons detailling what the sign says
  
• All the restaurants have plastic food outside so you know what your meal will look like
  
• There's loads of amusement arcades with a massive variety of slot machines
  
• A lot of the trains have a "ladies carriage"
  
• Loads of people wear surgeon's face masks
  
• The onsen (hot springs) place may throw you out if you have a tattoo
  
• The onsen places have relaxation rooms with big comfy sofas, TVs and video games!
  

Big in Japan?

Although it had been an airport birthday, it had actually been really relaxed, and we weren't rushed going for our plane. The flights were the highlight, probably (which helped build up the excitement of going to Japan). On the first flight they gave us a nice meal (and I've now learnt that I can ask for wine and won't have to pay for it), a good film, and ice-creams after dinner! How good is that? I've never been given ice-creams on a plane before. We had a bit of a wait in Sydney airport (until around what was midnight for us) which made me doze off, and caused me to resolve to sleep as soon as we got on the plane. But then we found an onboard entertainment system to rival BA's, and I wanted to make the most of everything that was on offer! It was a 10 hour flight, but to my frustration it was overnight. Confusingly for my stomach we were given dinner again (more wine!) and I watched bits of several films. Not much sleep, but it was all lots of fun. Breakfast was another dinner of fish and rice, but no wine this time.

For the first time, I was not nervous when arriving at our new country. This was because Tsuru had planned every detail of our journey to the last minute. And we had plenty of time to do it in. If you'll recall, we met Tsuru's husband, Dick, in Peru and then accepted a joint invitation from him and another Inca Trail comrade (Barb) to visit them in Portland, Oregon. Tsuru (Dick's Japanese wife) gave us a lot of help in working out what we would do in Japan. But then she went several steps further, and organised the whole visit for us! We would start by staying with her sister in Nara, then we would stay with her cousin in Hiroshima, then we would stay with her brother-in-law in Kyushu, before heading back to Nara and also spending some time with her mother. She even planned us a trip to a Japanese spa place. Hero!

So the only thing we were slightly nervous about was the idea of all the Japanese social rules. It's the first time we're visiting a society where we're the laid-back ones!

Upon arrival in Japan I immediately knew that this was the weirdest country I'd ever been to, and that to even get to grips with it a little bit I'd have to spend about 5 years living there. It's just so utterly different from anything I know. South and Central America were different, but they were still essentially populated by Europeans. Everywhere we've visited so far has been. I have a feeling that Asia is going to continue to be this alien. It's quite exciting. I think now I understand why people are constantly going back. I feel no real need to return to Latin America. No strong need, anyway. But having been in Asia just a few days, I know I'm going to have to come back. Several times.

We were back in winter (-1°C), but it was blue-skies and sunny. We had several trains we needed to take, according to Tsuru-san's instructions, but we had our rail passes, and the transport system is so good you really have nothing to worry about. Plus a lot of the signs in major places have English translations, and with the JR passes (a recommendation if going to Japan – you can only buy them outside the country, and give you unlimited travel on the JR lines within the given time limit. Otherwise things could get even more pricey... Also they look like a Christmas card!) you don't even need to get a ticket. You just show the pass at the gate. The guys are so polite and helpful, and will just let you through. That's another thing about Japan – the service industries are top rate, and it's also the first 'foreign' country where I haven't felt threatened for being white. The Japanese are used to the idea of travelling – so seeing a foreigner isn't that big a deal. We've also realised that it's the first developed country we've visited on this trip which hasn't been English-speaking.

We spent an amazingly tranquil day travelling from the airport in Tokyo to Horyuji in Nara. Which is strange because my image of Japan is busy busy busy. I think it was so quiet because actually, everyone was at work. Most other places tend to be busy whenever, as you've got your big share of unemployed and tourists. Looks like people in Japan actually go to work. The only people about were suits, young studenty types (amazingly dressed, especially the women. Japanese girls are so chic), and old people. One old man made us an origami thing as a present.

We were travelling on the Shinkansen – the bullet train. Your imagination will provide you the details. It's very fast. Really impressive. We got a little perplexed looking for lunch in Kyoto station. Yes, there were shops which were selling food, but it all came in such pretty boxes, we couldn't be sure if they were meant to be bought as presents or not. Could have just been the Japanese need for everything to be neat and beautiful. In the end we chickened out and found some packaged sandwiches in a shop (labelled 'delicious sandwiches', don't you know). They contained some kind of weird breaded pork (in one) and prawn stuff (in the other), some unidentifiable sauce, and coleslaw-type salad. Actually nothing like what I'd expect a packaged sandwich to be like, and actually 'delicious'. On the consumables front, we also noted a lot of vending machine selling something it called 'Pocari Sweat'. Now, I don't know what a pocari is, but I certainly don't want to drink its sweat! This is only the beginning of Japanese food and general naming weirdness. I don't even know if we'll have the energy to note it all in the blog!

Horyuji (a part of Nara) is near Kyoto and is a sort of small and very old town packed full of amazing temples. Tsuru-san's neice Mari met us at the station and took us through the streets on the most crystal clear and peaceful afternoon I ever believed we could spend in Japan. Everything was so old and traditional looking, and pretty and perfect, that I instantly fell in love with Japan.

Mari-san brought us back to her mother's house (Yu, Tsuru-san's sister) and introduced us to Japanese social rules. Most importantly – take your shoes off, goddamnit! And never wash in the bath, have a shower first! Japanese toilets/bathrooms – ah the joys. Most public places have funny squat trough things for toilets. But in the homes and nicer places they have 'shower toilets' which have lots of exciting buttons for squirting water, massage, and a heated seat. In some of the public ones they even had a flush-sound-effect button. The mind boggles. The bathroom divides into 2 – wet and dry. The wet bit also involves lots of buttons. You have a covered bath which always has water in and is maintained at a constant temperature (about 42°C). You have to sluice yourself down properly in the shower before you get in, as the water isn't changed between people. You have your bath in the evening to relax you and bring your core body temperature up – you wash, you soak, cold, hot, cold, hot. Nice. Very relaxing.

Mari-san gave us tea and cake and taught us bits and pieces about Japan. Then Yu-san came home and Mari cooked Wonderful Things. My knowledge of Japanese food was limited to sushi. There's a lot more to it! In fact, up until now my knowledge of Japan has been limited to the 13 years of Judo I did, and selected Anime films.

After dinner we sat around in the tatatmi room (mats) with this great table. You sit on cushions on the floor with your legs under this coffee table which is fringed by a big thick duvet. The underside of the table is heated – so it's very cosy in the winter. Bed involved sleeping on mats on the floor (futons – no wooden frames here) with big heavy duvets and electric bed warmers. Really comfortable.

The next morning Mari-san had cooked breakfast – I never expected to have to eat fried egg and bacon with chopsticks, or broccoli for breakfast! That morning Yu-san and Mari-san took us to visit the Horyuji temples. One of them is the oldest wooden structure in the world. I don't think I'd ever get bored of looking at Japanese shrines and temples – the architecture is gorgeous. It was another sunny, still and perfectly tranquil day, so just right for looking at temples I think.

We returned to the house for lunch and Mari-san had cooked 'Okonomoyaki', which is like a Japanese pancake or pizza. Basically a batter with lots of stuff in it, and further lots of stuff on top. After that we grabbed our big bags and headed for another shrine and temple (more actively working ones, this time). These were almost more interesting than the really ancients ones. Paul got a piece of paper with his fortune written on it from a sort of holy vending machine (they really do have vending machines for everything in this country).

The second working temple was 'Temple of the Peaceful death', although it actually meant more like 'temple of sudden death' – scary! As we arrived we found that a ceremony was just beginning. This was where we learnt about the Japanese supernatural ability to kneel. Boy is it painful! We all knelt near the front of the temple with incense burning and a giant statue of Buddha looking down on us. A monk came and knelt with his back to us, and spent a long time chanting and banging gongs and various other things. At several points we all banged large wooden fish with little drumsticks. It was a fascinating thing to take part in, but one got somewhat distracted by the pain in one's feet and knees!

After that Yu-san and Mari-san took us on the train as far as Shin-Osaka, where we would catch the train to Hiroshima (according to Tsuru-san's Master Plan) to visit Tsuru-san's cousin Naoko.

Hiroshima is an immediate contrast to Nara. It's a big city (although not giant), and while Nara is pretty old, Hiroshima has been entirely rebuilt since 1945 (that pesky A-bomb). Naoko-san met us off the train. She's an interpreter and sort of specialist tour guide, so her English is perfect. She was telling us about some interesting people who visited Hiroshima – like a British artist, Simon Starling, who had sunk a steamship near the Trident project and was now doing a mask/drama project on Hiroshima (art and cold war). And the people who are now creating virtual images of what Hiroshima looked like before the bomb. That was particularly interesting. They are collecting lots of photos and memories of people who used to know the city (while they're still alive). Some videos have been offered to the UN, and the whole project will be very important to the city.

That evening Naoko-san and her husband Kenji-san took us out for dinner and we had okonomoyaki again. But very different from Mari-san's version. Hiroshima is very proud of its distinct version of the dish which involves a huge array of vegetables, noodles, octopus, prawns, and other things. It was a feast and a half! Later we returned to her flat, had one of their crazy baths, and prepared our presentation for the next day. We were to be giving a couple of hours on Scotland and Scottish culture to some high school and university students who might be interested in studying abroad. We were really looking forward to it as we've been searching for opportunities to share our music etc with people in the places we visit.

In the morning (it was another clear crisp day) we took a walk through the Peace Park and visited the memorial to the victims of the bombing (incredibly moving) before heading to the venue. We had a group of about 10-15 girls, plus one Californian guy who was couchsurfing with one of them, and they were a genuine pleasure to present to. They were so engaged and enthusiastic – we felt it all went really well. It was so much fun – particular highlights being a Japanese version of 'Auld Lang Syne' and a mass performance of the 'Tatties and Herrin'' actions (that one's for you, Isla).

After the session we all went out for lunch in a beautiful looking restaurant where we all removed our shoes and sat on the floor (one of those!). We learnt that Josh the Californian had just moved to Korea and had been given a week's holiday which he was spending in Japan. We exchanged first impressions of East Asia. Naoko-san ordered sushimi for Paul and I – and we discovered miso soup. It's something I've always heard people rave about, but have never had any idea what it is or what's so special about it. See recipes page for details of this and other recipes in the series.

After lunch we left our enthusiastic lassies and took a taxi to our next social appointment of the day. Naoko-san had heard about a Jesuit group who gather every year to celebrate the life of a certain Father Pedro Arrupe. He was a Basque priest who ran the Catholic mission in Hiroshima and was in Hiroshima from 1942 to 1954 (at the time of the bomb) and worked tirelessly to help and heal the survivors. The people at the gathering found his life and work truly inspirational and were campaigning to have him turned into a saint.

The taxi driver, unfortunately, was not from Hiroshima and did not know the way to the church. He also refused to let us out and find a new taxi, and got us well and truly lost. There were a lot of phonecalls and pleas for directions, and we did eventually make it after a rather comical journey. We missed mass, but were just in time for the coffee and cakes!

I have to admit it was a little intimidating to start with. Naoko-san was also a visitor there and I felt a little strange turning up at this event with no idea what was going on or what it was about. The people there looked a little puzzled too, but Naoko-san explained our presence, and explained about Father Arrupe to us, and everyone was very welcoming. They gave several speeches about Father Arrupe, and the visitors were asked to introduce themselves (again, a bit intimidating, but Naoko-san was a first-rate interpreter). One of the other visitors was a man (a chemistry teacher, as it happened) who had taken it upon himself to translate a whole book about Father Arrupe into Japanese. An impressive feat! Another priest present (a Spaniard) had also created a Manga edition of the story of F.A.'s life. They were very keen that people shouldn't forget him, and that kids should learn about him too. Soon the generation that remembered him would die off, and it was important that their recollections be preserved. Meetings like the society's annual one wouldn't last as their numbers died off. It was amazing to see people so passionate. It was a fascinating event to attend, and to meet all of these people. So different from anything I'd expected to encounter in Japan.

Afterwards Naoko-san thought it would be nice for Paul and I to look around the chapel. We waited for someone to ask, and met Mr. Toi, whose first words to us were, 'You are most welcome to Japan!' An auspicious beginning! He showed us the chapel, which was an interesting mixture of Christian and Japanese – sliding paper doors, tatami, scrolls. He took great pride in explaining the different parts to us.

As we began walking back into town to find our train, he and his wife passed us in their car and offered us a lift to the station. On the way, we stopped at his old primary school and told us a bit about it. It was very significant in the history of the bombing (in fact we think he'd lost a friend there), and had been used as a refuge. There had also been one tree there which had remained standing after the bomb, and was still growing in the playground. A miracle tree really.

We peered through the gates, and then Mr. Toi decided that he would show us around. We went round the front and came across some kids practising baseball and some mothers. The little boys were very friendly – and people were interested to hear Mr. Toi had been a student there (he's also a chemistry teacher – they're everywhere apparently!). Then the boys took us round the playground and showed us the tree and a memorial. It was all so surreal, because most things were happening in Japanese and we were just following where we were led. But it was cool to come across this random baseball team with their enthusiasm and Mr. Toi's stories!

He ended up taking us all the way to Naoko-san's flat. He was such a lovely man – just another of these exceptionally kind strangers we keep encountering! Getting out of the car we bobbed up and down bowing for longer than I thought possible!

Next in our epic day was shopping for dinner – our first taste of Japanese shops. Hopefully we'll have more as they're so exciting! I never get bored of weird Japanese things. It had been a very long day, so it was nice to relax in the bath before dinner!

We'd scraped the surface of Hiroshima and the atomic bomb atrocity. Next was the real heart-breaker: 'the museum that ruins your day'.